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New Zealand farm working dogs 12 Dog Trials

--> By Dr Clive Dalton

History 
Photo of Old Hemp bred in Northumberland (UK) and now has his DNA in dog trial and working dogs around the world.



Dog trials have been part of New Zealand life since the establishment of sheep farming.  The late Neil Rennie’s research found that the first NZ trial was probably held at Wanaka in 1867 although it was not reported in the press. 

However, Neil found a trial reported in the Oamaru Times (now the Oamaru Mail) of July 9, 1869 as the third trial held on June 22-23 at Wanaka.  So these trials certainly outdated what was considered to be the worlds first dog trial at Bala in North Wales in 1873!  Neil was always very thrilled with this historical fact!

The first trials were a bit sporadic, and it wasnt until dog trial clubs were formed that regular events took place.  The first trial, which included huntaway events Neil found was at Black Forest station in 1870.

Dog trialing in NZ is controlled by the NZ Sheep Dog Trial Association which is made up of affiliated member clubs with meetings starting with the summer A&P shows and culminating in regional and national finals in about June.  There are shepherds trial and maiden dog trials for the less experienced held throughout the year.

Dog trialing, while still an important way to select top dogs, has through Television become a competitive sport with great public interest.

Entry qualifications for trials
The only qualification for a dog to enter a trial is its ability to work sheep.  Pedigree, colour, age or sex are not important.  Handlers can be of any age and there is no sex discrimination!  Competitors must be the bona fide owner of the dog being run, and should have owned the dog for at least 6 weeks before the competition.

Each trial has its rules of entry. At some you may have to pre-enter some days before with runs pre-scheduled to keep to a strict timetable.  In others you enter on the day but may have to wait till dusk to compete!

Most trial organisations now insist that dogs have a current hydatids treatment certificate

Check the rules
Its very important for competitors to check the rules of the particular SDTA before they start.  You can get them from any Dog Trail Club secretary and are fairly common to all trials.  However, there may be some non-standard events which are displayed at the trial. 

In almost all NZ trials one dog works three sheep.  The running of "doubles" where a shepherd works two dogs or more is a British practice and is only used here for television presentations to provide more entertainment for the viewer. 

Standard classes
There are four main standard classes for trials run under the NZSDTA.

Class 1: - Heading dogs - long head or long pull.
The competitor and dog stands in a ring from 200-500m in diameter, and in a direct line away from where three sheep are set free by a "liberator" or "slipper".  When the judge calls "time" the dog is sent on its "outrun" or "cast".  It should be free-running and the dog should not waver, tack or stop.  Most long-head runs start on a hill and finish on the flat, depending on the trial location.

A pear-shaped outrun is ideal and it can be to the left or right of the handler.  Generally most courses favour a right-hand cast.  A very wide outrun as used in a big paddock is not wanted but its also important that the dog does not run so direct at the sheep that it panics them and they take flight.

When the dog completes the outrun, it should stop in such a position that when the sheep move, they come in a straight line to the handler.  This is known as "stopping on balance," before the dog "lifts" the sheep or starts them moving.

The dog now executes the "pull" or drive the sheep straight towards the handler.  The sheep should not stop on their journey and the pull is completed when the sheep enter the ring where the handler stands.  This is the "hold" and is "claimed" by the handler standing still with outstretched arms.  After the "claim" the judge will call "right".

To go for the perfect hold the handler moves around the sheep as they enter the ring so the final scene is the sheep facing the dog with the handler behind them. 

The time allocated for this event is usually about 9 - 14 minutes.

Class 2: - Heading dogs - short head and yard

The competitor and dog stand in a pegged quadrangle or "quad".  As in Class 1, the dog makes an outrun and pulls the sheep to the handler, entering the quad between the front markers.  Even if the sheep escape, they must be taken back to enter the quad through "the front door", and the handler cannot leave the quad until this is completed.

Competitor and dog then move the sheep along a pegged 20m-wide lane towards two parallel hurdles.  They cannot stray outside the lane on this "first drive".  The handler can move across "the drive" but shouldnt get ahead of the shoulder of the leading sheep or move backwards.

Points are lost for excessive movement or running, or for the competitor and dog changing sides during the drive.  This first drive ends at a peg in the middle of the lane, 10m away from the hurdles through which the sheep have got to be driven.

After all the sheep have passed the peg, the handler may move about freely to help the dog drive the sheep through the hurdles.  The sheep are now in the "free working area" ready to pass through the hurdles that are 3m apart.  All sheep and the handler must pass through the hurdles.  So if any slip past, they must be brought back.

The "second drive" is similar to the first and ends at a line 10m from the yard.  Once over this line, the competitor can go to the 2m square yard and open the gate until it hits a stop that prevents it opening more than 90 degrees.  Once the hand is on the gate, it cannot be released until the sheep are completely inside the pen.

The gate cannot be used to frighten the sheep and drive them in.  Thats the dogs job!  No part of the competitor, including the stick which must be no more than 1m long, is permitted to come forward of the line extending along the gate and out from its head.  Only behind this line can the competitor move about to assist the dog.

The run is completed when the sheep are penned and the gate shut.  The time for this event is usually about 10 - 14 minutes.

Class 3:  Huntaways - Zigzag hunts

For the "zigzag" or "huntaway with slew" the competitor stands at the bottom of the course, usually in a pegged area and facing a steep hill.  Three sheep are liberated at the top of the course and at the call of "time" the trial starts.

The competitor directs the dog to hunt the sheep in a straight line through the first two pegs marked on the course.  The sheep must then change direction or "slew" towards a second set of makers and then proceed to the top markers in line with the first.

The dog must "face-up" to the sheep.  In other words it must bark at the sheep, and not at the handler.

The time for this event is usually around 8 - 10 minutes.

Class 4:  Huntaways - straight hunt

This begins in the same way as the zigzag but the only markers are those at the top of the course.  The sheep have to be hunted directly to the centre of these top markers - in as straight a line as possible.

At some trials, class 3 and 4 are run on the same course, with the two sets of markers being ignored for the straight hunt.

Time allowed for this event is usually about 8 - 10 minutes.

General points
·      The aim of trials is to demonstrate a high level of stock handling and dog control.
·      The challenge is to be able to assess quickly the sheeps strengths and weaknesses.
·      The aim is to direct force at stock from a distance.  The dog must be careful but firm.
·      The first contact of the dog with the sheep is a critical time and must be accomplished with great care.
·      There is no disgrace in not finishing a run.  Its better to withdraw with grace than hound some other persons sheep to injury or exhaustion.
·      Withdrawal is indicated by a wave to the judge or walking off the course.  If you cannot control the sheep, then leave them for the officials to handle.

Judging
Judges are all experienced dog trialists who aim to judge each run with impartiality and to a uniform standard.  Judging in nearly all NZ trials is by one judge who takes points off the perfect score of 100.  There are a large number of reasons to deduct points.  Here are some major ones:

·      Not completing the run.
·      A dog that loses concentration and stops to sniff an area or urinate.
·      A huntaway that shows inattention to the sheep, eg looks back and barks at the handler called "barking off the stock".
·      A heading dog that makes a slow outrun without much purpose
·      A heading dog that bites sheep.

Cattle dog trials
Although sheep dogs work cattle, trials to demonstrate this skill have not been popular in New Zealand.

The Stud Book
The NZ Sheepdog Stud Book, in which all dogs that win trials can be entered started in 1940.  It is run by a stud book committee and a registrar. 

Further information
New Zealand Sheep Dog Trail Association, PO Box 307, Hastings, New Zealand.



Further reading
Burns, M and Fraser, M.N. (1966).  Genetics of the Dog.  London: Oliver and Boyd

Dalton, D.C.(1983).  Farm Working Dogs.  Ministry of Agriculture & Fisheries AgLink advisory leaflets.  FPP 613, 695, 696, 697, 698,699, 700, 701, 702, 703,704, 775.

Fox, M.W. (1965).   Canine Behaviour. Springfield: C.C. Thomas.

Fox, M.W. (1972).   Understanding Your Dog. New York: Coward. McCann and Geoghegan.

Kelly, R.B. (1958).   Sheep Dogs. Sydney: Angus and Robertson.

Longton, T and Hart, E (1969).   Your Sheep Dog and its Training.  Battle (Sussex):  Alan Exley.

Lorenz, K (1953)   Man Meets Dog.  London:  Penguin Books.

Rennie, N (1984).   Working dogs.  Shortland Publications, Auckland NZ.  96p

Scott. J.P. and Fuller, J.L. (1965).  Genetics and Social Behaviour of the Dog.  Chicago: University of Chicargo Press.

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New Zealand Farm working Dogs 3 Mating Birth and Weaning

--> By Dr Clive Dalton
 
Mating
Dogs reach puberty at about 6-9 months of age and learn the behaviour needed to mate (eg mounting) through play.  Dogs are great individuals so bringing a bitch to a dog is probably the best way to do things.  Then it saves the time the dog will waste establishing himself in a new territory by cocking his leg on everything in sight.

The female "presents" by showing a receptive posture while the male smells and licks her genital area.  She may run a short distance and present again to excite the dog.  When in standing oestrus, the dog will mount and gain entry by trial and error.  He will then thrust vigorously stepping from one leg to the other.  During this time ejaculation occurs.

The dogs penis engorges for about 15-30 seconds in the vagina locking the pair together.  The bitch may twist and turn and the pair may end up pointing in different directions for about 10-30 minutes.  Throwing water over them will do no good at all!  During this locked position a second ejaculation occurs when most of the prostate fluid is expelled. 

Great damage can occur by pulling mating dogs apart.  So if its an unplanned mating - be patient. Spend the time placating the bitch’s owner!  The deed has been done so contact your veterinarian about an early abortion.

Pregnancy
A bitch will reach puberty and come into heat first from 6-18 months of age.  If not pregnant. she will return to heat every 6-9 months.  Bitches spend a long time in "pro-oestrus" or coming into heat.  This is annoying as all the dogs in the area think they should stay around, and wait for the great moment when she will stand. 

While coming on heat, her vulva will become red and swollen and she passes a sticky mucous.  As heat continues she will stand to be mounted before racing away to tease the male.

“Standing heat” occurs about 10 days after the start of coming into season, and lasts anything from 5-12 days.  At this most receptive stage the vulval discharge changes to a pale straw colour which will bring dogs for miles away.  She also urinates regularly to spread the news and mark her territory.  A good sign that she is "right on" is when she urinates in the presence of a male, usually when he smells her genitals.  If he doesnt get the message then, he never will! 

There are problems with inexperienced males who in all the excitement get things wrong.  To avoid this, mate a young dog first to an old bitch, and vice versa.  Some of the finer points of sexual behaviour have to be learned. Pregnancy in a bitch lasts from 58-63 days.

Pseudo pregnancy (false pregnancy)
This is an annoying condition as a bitch may appear to be pregnant for 30-90 days.  She will show all the signs of a normal pregnancy, make a nest in preparation for birth and even produce milk for up to 60 days.   This can be very handy to rear orphan pups but a nuisance if you want to mate her as she may not come in heat again for 3-4 months.

Birth
A working bitch will still want to work right up the time before birth, so watch her carefully to make sure shes not injured as she slows up with her extra load!  About 12-24 hours before birth she will make a bed of anything around.  Make sure she has some straw or rags to chew up, and dont be surprised if she doesnt want to whelp in her kennel.  She may sneak off to a hole in the ground somewhere.  Youll have to lock her up if you want to dictate the maternity quarters.

Shell become restless and have a reduced appetite prior to birth.  Frequent urination and defaecation as well as heavy panting are also good signs of action to come.  Labour can last from 2-3 hours up to 12 hours depending on the litter size and any complications.  Seek veterinary help at the first sign of problems. 

As each pup is born the bitch will chew the birth sac, biting through the umbilical cord in the process.  The arrival of the afterbirth is a sign that all the pups have arrived and the bitch will probably eat it too.

The bitch then spends a lot of time licking the pups, especially their lower abdomen and area around the genitals ingesting their faeces and urine.  This keeps the nest clean and dry - two important aspects.

Dont disturb the bitch during whelping and keep strangers away.  If you need the vet, then make sure you are there to reassure the bitch and stay near her head comforting her.

Pups after birth
Pups are born blind and deaf, and the world of sight and sound only opens up to them at about three weeks of age.  So they are very "touch" conscious animals at birth, and this "contact comfort" stays with them for the rest of their lives.  This is why the greatest reward you can give a working dog is a reassuring pat!

Pups are quite active soon after birth, but stay near each other and seek out warm surfaces because near these, teats and milk can usually be found.  The side-to-side movements of very young pups as they move short distances, show how they are looking for those teats.  The bitch often encourages them towards her teats by licking.

If you have an inexperienced bitch, it may be useful to fit a rail around the whelping area as used for sows. to prevent her lying on pups.  Strong pups usually get out of the way or make such a noise that she will investigate their cries.  Smaller weaker pups may be ignored and squashed.

Rearing
Just before 4 weeks old, a pup begins to react to its litter mates and its mother.  At this stage the pup can see and hear.  Play, tail-wagging, barking and other traits of the adult dog are seen now.

For bitches with large litters, make sure they can get away from the pups for short periods, especially as they get older.  A shelf to lie on above the pups is ideal.  But watch a lactating bitch for roaming in search of food.   At this stage she’ll have an enormous appetite when shes milking heavily.

Once the bitch has discouraged the pups from sucking, the focus is shifted from her teats to her muzzle.  This is because the primitive dog fed her pups by regurgitating food she brought back to the den.  The pup licks the muzzle with a crouching posture of a low-ranking pack member.  So when a dog licks your face, remember it’s asking you to regurgitate your last meal for it!

Socialisation 



From 5 weeks of age pups will avoid strangers and this peaks at about 8 weeks.  Its an “anxiety” period that nature has designed to protect them from predators.  So anything that a pup has not experienced before about 12 weeks will be avoided later with some fear.

So 4 - 12 weeks of age is the most important time in a pups life.   This is the "socialisation" stage when it learns to interact with other dogs, people and anything else it will meet later on.  Let the pup experience noises, strangers, children, cats, cars and so on, if you want a happy well-adjusted dog.  There is no truth in the belief of some trainers that children can spoil pups - let them play with the kids as much as they want without getting hurt or abused.

Building the bond




Establishing yourself as a pups pack leader is vital, and it needs to be done before 12 weeks of age.   A method used by some dog handlers is simply to lay the pup flat on the ground and hold it down with both hands.  If it struggles, shake it (which is what a bitch does) and growl or raise your voice.  Then when it settles speak quietly to it and calm it by rubbing your hands all over it, including putting your fingers in its mouth.

Actions used by successful handlers:

·      Feed the pup yourself, so you and food become associated.

·      Occasionally interrupt the pups feeding for a few seconds, praise it then let it feed again.  If it resists, use the shake-praise technique.

·      Never call the dog to you just before disciplining it.

·      Dont leave the pup alone for long periods. Take it with you wherever you go.

·      Introduce it carefully to frightening experiences where it can get hurt - eg. trampling by sheep.

·      Be consistent and dont change the rules.  Give plenty of praise.  Make sure everyone else near the pup understands the rules and is not breaking them and confusing the pup.

·      If a pup shows signs of dominance or develops bad habits, use the “shake-praise” routine.

·      Eye contact is very dominating.  Hold the pup up to your eye level for periods of 30-90 seconds and stare it out.  If it struggles shake-praise it.  Praise it softly until it settles.  Repeat the exercise often in different places.

Gentle dominance of a pup by handler

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