Enrich Your Dogs Mealtime With Paw5 Bowls GIVEAWAY!

Hey, guys!

Happy Leap Day!


Today I have a really fun new puzzle feeder dog bowl to share with you from Paw5! Paw5 is a new company offering a new way of feeding your dog. This environmentally friendly, mentally stimulating bowl takes mealtime to a whole new level. Mental stimulation is just as important as physical work, and Paw5 understands this. Theyve even generously offered one (1) of my readers a choice to win their very own bowl!



This USA made bowl stimulates all of your dogs senses with its innovative design, keeping food time fun, engaging and challenging. The contrasting colors and erratic movement of the bowl engage your dogs sight. The various openings allow plenty of scent to reach your pups nose and let out tasty kibble. The sound of rattling kibble revs up your pups appetite. The fun shape encourages your dog to nose, paw and touch the bowl in order to get it to release the kibble.






The bowl is BPA and phthalate free, and comes apart for easy cleaning - its even dishwasher safe! It comes in orange and grey, or blue and grey. The colors are vibrant and very visually appealing, not to mention that paw print design is too cute!

The bowl holds up to four cups of kibble, and the openings are big enough to let even large sized kibble such as Acana and Orijen through with ease.

This kibble is Canidae PURE Sky Grain Free 


I do wish that the bowl came in different sizes, and had a way to make the openings smaller. 10lb, long nosed Nola can easily shove her tongue in the toy and get the food out that way, and the openings are so large that they fall through with the slightest movement. This results in Nola getting her food out in under a minute. This may be better for a larger dog, or perhaps mine is just smart. ;)
However, I do appreciate how this prevents her from gulping!


Overall, I really like the idea of this bowl, as well as the company that stands behind it. Its definitely a fun bowl that Nola loves to play with!




GIVEAWAY DETAILS


Paw5 has generously offered one (1) bowl for one of you guys to win! Follow the instructions in the Rafflecopter below, and good luck! Sorry, US residents only.

a Rafflecopter giveaway


- Dachshund Mommy
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Dog Bite Prevention in San Diego

By Kay Thompson BSN RN, CPEN, CPDT-KA



We hear the same story way too often at Rady Children’s Emergency Department here in San Diego. “Our dog has never bitten anyone. The kids and the dog play nicely together all the time. Then today, out of the blue, he bit him.” As we prepare for the plastic surgeon to arrive and repair these tiny faces, we often wonder, “Why do we see so many dog bites?” As a trauma nurse and a dog trainer, I decided a few years ago that I wanted to find out more about dog bites. My hunch was that people can prevent nearly all of them. I am now certain that this is the case. The way we can prevent dog bites is by educating the entire community.

In 2009, I was honored to be the recipient of a generous injury prevention grant from The San Diego Chapter of the Emergency Nurse’s Association. I didn’t know where to begin, but I knew I would need some help from experts in dog bite prevention. That is when I found Doggone Safe. Together, we have created a complete educational program. It is suited for providing dog bite prevention education to all ages. Products available include colorful brochures, postcards, and a poster that gives a quick lesson in dog body language and explains that “Dogs Don’t Bite Out of the Blue.” Click here to view and order these.

For the past three years, I have focused my energy on educating San Diego area nurses, doctors, and paramedics about dog bite prevention. I have had the opportunity to give my lecture entitled “Who Let the Dog Bite?” to audiences throughout Southern California. This year, I will have the opportunity to take this education nationwide. I will be presently during Dog Bite Prevention Week at CFED West, which is a national education conference for paramedics and firefighters. In September, I’m thrilled to be speaking at The Emergency Nurse’s Association National Conference here in San Diego.

Thank you Doggone Safe for your wonderful partnership! I’m very proud of the progress we have made and the strides we have taken to bring Dog Bite Prevention to the forefront of injury prevention.



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Books for Before After you get a Puppy Dog

Whether you’ve lived with dogs since you were in the womb, or you’re first bringing a dog into the home at 46, how do you know where to turn when you’ve got a question? And everyone -- from the most experienced dogger to a first timer -- is bound to have a few questions along the way.

Unfortunately, not all books are created equal, and “Googling it,” can pop out some pretty scary answers. 


In response to a request on our facebook page, the Do You Believe in Dog? team has put together a short list of easy-to read books for before and after you get a puppy or dog. 

These books that are not only short and easy to read but they are easy on the wallet or even free!


Before and After You Get Your Puppy by Dr. Ian Dunbar
Dunbar has been in the dog world for a long time. He began his career studying dog hormones and behavior alongside Dr. Frank Beach and has since moved into helping dogs an humans get on the same page. His two free e-books get straight to the point:

  • Before you get your puppy: Dowload Free PDF here
  • After you get your puppy: Dowload Free PDF here
  • Purchase a hard copy

Perfect Puppy in 7 Days by Dr. Sophia Yin 

Yin is also a veterinarian, and she specializes in behaviour. Perfect Puppy in 7 Days is available to order as book (or e-book).

 

The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey
If youre looking for something family friendly (accessible for kids to read too) on your local library shelves, try Gwen Baileys books:  
Puppy handbookThe Perfect PuppyGood Dog Behaviour or The Rescue Dog.

 

The Puppy Primer by Dr. Patricia McConnell
McConnell received her PhD in Zoology in 1988 and has been working with dogs (and their people) ever since! The Puppy Primer is a trainer favourite and describes a six-week program to get you and your puppy off on the right paw.


 

Don’t Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor
Karen Pryor, a biologist who got her start working with dolphins, has has created a wealth of information at her Clicker Training website and her book, Dont Shoot the Dog is really valuable to help understand how and why certain training methods will work better than others.


Happy reading before and after you get your new family member!

Julie & Mia
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Do Dogs Need Canine Friends


By Lisa Mason

There are a lot of different opinions about whether a dog needs to have other dogs around them to have a happy life. Some will say that their tiny little dog hasn’t seen another dog since it left its mother. Other pet owners will clutch their small dog protectively when a larger dog approaches. They worry that the small dog will get hurt rough housing around with the bigger canines.

All the while that we humans are holding our small dogs in our arms to keep them out of harm’s way, typically the dog is struggling to get free to go play with the other dog. We keep our dogs indoors and away from other dogs because we fear that another dog may have fleas or some other disease that will infect our dogs. We in fact baby and protect our dogs to the point of making them social outcasts.

Dogs are Members of a Pack

Dogs are social animals.  Let’s not forget that they are descendants of wolves who ran in packs. Let’s not forget that our dog’s ancestors lived in the wild and were quite capable of taking care of themselves. We have domesticated dogs so much over the years that they are now totally dependent on humans for their every need. Dogs used to run in the wild, in packs. The pack leader, or head canine, kept the pack under control and taught the smaller pups how to interact within the pack’s circle.

Today, we have become the pack leader and our dogs look to us for their food, water and everyday needs. Every dog seems to need a human attached to it, or society labels it a stray and it is generally picked up by animal control. Dogs are dependent on humans and we decide if we will allow the dog to socialize with its own kind.

Again, dogs are social animals. They enjoy interacting with people, other dogs and yes, even other species, such as cats and farm animals. But just as we humans relate better to another human, so will a dog relate better to another dog. A dog can form a fast friendship with another dog, or he can take an instant dislike to another dog just like we do with the people we meet.

Let’s look at it this way: what if you spent 24 hours a day in the house with your dog, day in and day out without ever seeing another human. Even though you love your dog and enjoy spending time with him, you would soon be stir crazy. You would be longing for human interaction. You would look out the window and drool when another human walks by, just like your dog does when he sees another dog.

This is not to say that one should open the door and let their dog run wild with other dogs. However, we should remember that dogs need to be around their canine companions just as we need other humans. Dogs learn from each other, dogs play in the same way and dogs form strong friendship bonds with other dogs. Allowing your dog the freedom to choose some canine friends is just good pet parenting.

Top photo by Eddie Van 3000
Bottom photo by Michelle Tribe

Read more articles by Lisa Mason
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How to Love Your Dog Its Not What You Think!



Think that your dog likes hugs and kisses? Well if he is like most dogs, then he does not enjoy this type of human affection. Children want to show love to dogs by giving hugs and kisses, because this how they show affection to people they love. Hugs are not a natural form of canine interaction to show affection. To show your dog that you love him, learn to give him the things that he really does like and teach your kids to do the same.

Most dog bites are to children, by the family dog or another dog known to the child. Hugs and kisses are a major cause of facial bites to children. Doggone Safe offers suggestions for safe ways to love your dog that the dog will appreciate.

Children (and adults too) often want to show love to dogs the way we show love to each other, through hugs and kisses. Dogs do not naturally understand this, or even enjoy it. Hugs and face-to-face contact can be very threatening to dogs. The dog may tolerate this for a while, but at some point may bite or snap to protect himself once he has exhausted all his means of more subtle warning. Some dogs do enjoy a hug from a special person, if it is on their terms and done with some extra scratching on the chest. Few, if any dogs enjoy hugs the way young children do this, which is to clasp around the neck and hang on. Parents, teach your children to avoid face-to-face contact with any dog (even their own dog) and to show love to the dog in ways other than hugging and kissing.

Doggone Safe offers the following suggestions for Valentine’s Day about how to love your dog in a way that the dog will appreciate.

Touch Your Dog
  • Invite your dog to come to you for attention. If your dog turns away or moves away, respect his wishes and leave him alone. Many dogs like to be near you, but not necessarily to be touched.
  • Scratch your dog on the side of the neck or on his chest.
  • Avoid hugs and kisses. People enjoy this, but most dogs don’t like hugs and kisses. They might tolerate it, but few actually enjoy it.
  • Invite your dog to sit with you while your read or watch TV. Let him lean on you or put his head on your lap on his terms.
  • Some dogs enjoy a scratch behind the ears. Most dogs don’t enjoy hands coming down on the top of their heads.
  • Pet your dog and then stop. If he tries to get you continue then you will know he likes it.

Play With Your Dog
  • Play games like fetch and hide and seek that do not involve chasing or rough play.
  • Take your dog for lots of walks.

Understand Your Dog
  • Learn to read dog body language so that you can understand what your dog is trying to tell you.
  • A happy dog pants and wags his tail loosely. He may wag all over.
  • An anxious dog might show a half moon of white in his eye or he may lick his lips or yawn. He may turn his head away or walk away. He wants to be left alone.
  • A dog that suddenly goes stiff and still is very dangerous and might be ready to bite.
  • A dog with his mouth closed and ears forward and/or with his tail held high is busy thinking about something and does not want to be bothered.

Reward Your Dog
  • Look for things your dog does right and give him a treat or praise, petting or play. Never hit or yell at your dog.
  • Give your dog a stuffed Kong or Chewber or other long lasting chew treat to enjoy while he lies on a mat or in a crate.
Visit our site to download this information as a handout

Read a previous blog post for more about why dogs dont like hugs and kisses
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Dogs dont speak English Give it a Name

My name is Not a command.

You can train your dog using the dogs name before a command as in "Joe Come" or even use the dogs name as encouragement after calling him but the dogs name itself should Never be used alone as the command.

Say for instance, you always call your dogs name, "Joe", to get him to come to you. The word "Joe" has now taken on the meaning of the command "Come". Likewise, if you yell the dogs name when hes snooping through the trash can or about to steal your lunch off the kitchen table, the dog learns that his name means 1) hes in trouble or 2) he should get away from something. This can be very confusing for dogs as one command cannot be associated with every action. Dogs become desensitized to their name.

Now imagine how confusing it would for the dog if he learned to come only to his name and now you want him to learn Sit and Stay. As the dog is sitting you must be very careful to not say his name. Even in encouraging ways. "Good boy Joe". To the dog "Joe" means "Come". The dog cannot sit/stay and come at the same time.

The dog needs to learn "Joe" what? "Joe" followed by a command tells the dog what you want him to do. "Joe sit". "Joe come". "Joe out". This way the dog learns each individual command and that his name is to get his attention and get ready to respond.

Give it a name.

Dogs have the ability to learn or recognize hundreds of words. We all use Sit, Down, Come or variations of these and other commands. We do this by associating a word with an action to get across what we want the dog to do. You can do the same with everyday words using consistency, patients and enough practice to build a clear association between the word and the action.

Name it!

"Kennel" as your dog is entering his kennel/crate.
"House" as your dog is on his way into the house.
"Outside" as you open the door for your dog to enter the backyard.
"ByeBye" as you gather the leash for a walk.
"Potty" as the dog is begining to urinate.

The opportunities are endless. Just be sure to use simple commands and use them each time your dog is doing the action you want to name. Use tiny treats to motivate your dog if needed and have fun with word play too. Just because a word means something in English doesnt mean it has to to your dog. It is just as easy to teach a dog to lift his paw and associate the word "Pony" instead of "Paw" as the dog lifts his foot.
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Throw another dog in the data pool

Hello Julie,

My, oh my! What an exciting time it was last week, witnessing Dog Spies migration to the Scientific American Blog Network. 

Such a great day for dogs, for science and for YOU


Yah! for this recognition of your fabulous writing achievements, communicating the field of canine science to a broader audience. WELL DONE!

As for your question about writing and how I do it, I have to admit Im between systems currently. By this, I mean that I sometimes map out ideas and plan my writing on paper before hitting the laptop; other times I just let rip straight onto the keyboard. 
I dont know if Ill ever migrate to a completely paperless system, but I feel that Im moving in that direction. I still take most of my notes in meetings on paper, which is ridiculous as my handwriting is barely legible, even to me!
Thanks also for the link to that piece by Clive Wynne about academic writing - I really enjoyed reading it.

META-ANALYSIS

You said it. Im neck-deep in meta-analysis goodness right now and Id love to tell you more about it. 

The meta-analysis data set Im currently involved in compiling is about canine salivary cortisol (that just means cortisol found in dog spit). Cortisol is a hormone (more detail here) regularly used in research concerning animal stress and welfare. Ive been interested in canine salivary cortisol  for a while now. 

Thats partly because I collected a lot of it (dog spit, that is) from dogs living in home environments and working dog kennels as part of my PhD research; and partly because its really interesting! But my data alone is just one piece of a bigger puzzle. While its really valuable information (of course its valuable, its part of my PhD!), it only offers insight into around 75 dogs from one population of purpose-bred dogs in one geographic area during one two-year period. How do the results of these dogs in my study compare to normal dogs?

Well, you see - thats the thing. What is the normal range for salivary cortisol in dogs?
We dont really know. 


What is it?
Meta-analysis is a way of evaluating and interpreting the results from research about a particular topic. It adds together the data from different studies, then looks at the compiled data pool to see what patterns and relationships might emerge in the larger body of available information created by the many research projects.
Throw another dog in the (data) pool! (source)

Why use it?
The patterns and groups we might look at within a meta-analysis of salivary cortisol (often used as an indicator of stress/welfare in dog research) are things like: 
  • Effects of different environments (do all the results from dogs housed in unfamiliar kennel environments or familiar home environments clump together at different or similar points within the range of values as a whole?); 
  • Effects of breed/age (is the range for labradors the same as that for german shepherds? Are all the young dogs in the same place as the old dogs?); 
  • Methodological aspects (such as what collection media was used: cotton swabs / synthetic rope / swabs with a saliva stimulant, etc. - does this effect where the cortisol results lie within the whole range?) 
All this information (and much more!) can be investigated and the information will help to provide further context for the existing studies, while also informing the design and interpretation of future studies.


Nancy Dreschel
Can you really do that?
Yep, you really can! Meta-analysis is a method used frequently in human health research and there are plenty of resources to refer to (check out further reading section below). Of course, there are a few fancy statistical things you need to take into account and be aware of, to avoid tricksy sources of bias and subjectivity. 

Fortunately, my collaborator extraordinaire, Dr Nancy Dreschel, from The Pennsylvania State University, has set us up to work closely with an extensively experienced biostatistician, so we should be safe from any meta-analytic traps for young players.  

Nancy and I decided to undertake this project together after meeting at last years Canine Science Forum. It really is the best conference ever.

You meet the greatest people there, no?!  

As Im sure you already know, Nancy has done some very important research in the area of canine salivary cortisol, which Ill definitely write about in another post, another time (because cortisol in dog spit is SO worthy of being its own topic for discussion). She was recently chosen to receive the 2012 Excellence in Academic Advising Award from Penn State, and Im so pleased to be working with her on this project. 
This dog could probably provide 5L of spit without trying (source)
So far weve had great support from our fellow researchers, who have shared the raw data from over 30 studies with us. This has allowed us to enter data that represents over 5,000 separate cortisol sample results. As Nancy pointed out to me in a recent conversation, that represents around 5L (or 1.3 US gallons) of canine saliva. Juicy! 

Want to see one?
Well lucky for you - here are three meta-analysis papers I prepared* earlier:
  • Breed differences in dogs sensitivity to human points: A Meta-Analysis
    These authors experienced a reluctance from other researchers to share data, which they handled with refreshingly direct honesty in their publication.

    Excerpt from Dorey, et al. (2009)
  • Personality Consistency in Dogs: A Meta-Analysis
    I mentioned this in my last post, but its worth mentioning again and a great example for anyone to look at, as its readily available through open access journal, PloS-One.
  • Animal-Assisted Therapy: A Meta-Analysis
    Im not sure its compulsory to title your paper This Thing We Looked At: A Meta-Analysis, but its seems kinda catchy. Well probably follow suit.
*These are not my research. By prepared, I meant hyperlinked.

So there you have it. Im excited about dogs and Im excited about throwing their data into the compiled data pool. I imagine it will look something like this when were finished compiling:
Data "pooled". Snorrrt. Get it? Pooled? Ha!

When I posted on Facebook about being excited about dogs and pools, you might have expected Id talk about gene pools. Which is funny, because I wasnt intending to. Except that this week a study opened to collect data and the researchers involved in it ARE interested in gene pools, amongst other things - specifically the breeding, health, training and performance success of working farm dogs in Australia. 


The Farm Dog Project has launched (source)
Researchers at the University of Sydney, including Dr Joanathan Early, are seeking information via an online survey from working farm dog handlers about their dogs. Jono explained to me that "the information from this initial online survey will be used to focus the next stages of the Farm Dog Projects research into the specific areas that farmers identify as central to realizing the potential in farm dogs." 

If you have a working farm dog in Australia, you can take part in the online survey.

This will aid the Farm Dog Projects later endeavours, helping to focus and design objective behavioural measurements for traits that are highly valuable and/or difficult to train (remember when we talked about drive?), so efforts can then be turned to identifying the gene behaviour associations which can assist future breeding programs. Dr Early expects that "this information can then be used over the longer term of the Farm Dog Projects scope to develop Estimated Breeding Values (EBVs) or Genetic breeding Values (geBVs) so that working farm dogs can benefit from the same access to science and breeding technology as the livestock they herd". Interestingly, some Guide Dog organisations have been using EBVs to genetically improve their dogs for guiding people with a visual impariment for close to a decade now.

This exciting body of research offers huge potential to the future of Australias working farm dogs and has been supported by the Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation (RIRDC); Meat and Livestock Australia (MLA) and the Working Kelpie Council.


I think I should stop now, this has turned into a long post, but its tough with all this exciting canine science going around me! Whats going on around you? Is it exciting too?


I truly hope so!

Mia

Further reading:

Liberati A., Altman D.G., Tetzlaff J., Mulrow C., Gøtzsche P.C., Ioannidis J.P.A., Clarke M., Devereaux P.J., Kleijnen J. & Moher D. & (2009). The PRISMA statement for reporting systematic reviews and meta-analyses of studies that evaluate health care interventions: explanation and elaboration, Journal of Clinical Epidemiology, 62 (10) e1-e34. DOI: 10.1016/j.jclinepi.2009.06.006

Dorey N.R., Udell M.A.R. & Wynne C.D.L. (2009). Breed differences in dogs sensitivity to human points: A meta-analysis, Behavioural Processes, 81 (3) 409-415. DOI: 10.1016/j.beproc.2009.03.011

Fratkin J.L., Sinn D.L., Patall E.A. & Gosling S.D. (2013). Personality consistency in dogs: a meta-analysis., PloS one, PMID: 23372787

Nimer J. & Lundahl B. (2007). Animal-Assisted Therapy: A Meta-Analysis, Anthrozoos: A Multidisciplinary Journal of The Interactions of People & Animals, 20 (3) 225-238. DOI: 10.2752/089279307X224773

© 2013 Mia Cobb
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New Zealand farm working dogs Doug Langs TED

By Dr Clive Dalton

Too many Ag Grads
I arrived at the Whatawhata Hill Country Research Station, near Hamilton, New Zealand from Leeds University in 1968, after the UK government in its wisdom, in the hands of PM Harold Wilson and Sir John Wolfendon of the University Grants Committee (UGC), decided that we were turning out too many ‘agricultural’ graduates, and we needed more ‘agricultural science’ graduates. Our Leeds Vice Chancellor Sir Roger Stevens, an ex Foreign Office diplomat who knew nothing about agriculture bought this con, and we were on our way – out the door!

Closed down
The UGC closed the Agricultural Schools at Leeds, Oxford and Glasgow and the end result, that I heard from colleagues who hung on at Leeds trying to reinvent themselves with new names to include the word science, was a monumental shambles that only high-powered bureaucrats and Knights of the Realm could accomplish.

Nothing was achieved to benefit agricultural education or farming, but it got our family away from the Leeds winter smogs to breathe the pure air of the New Zealand hill country.

Whatawhata Hill Country Research Station 1970s

Whatawhata
After five weeks at sea, we arrived at this research station with the funny name – ‘Whatawhata’ which is of Maori origin for ‘elevated storehouse, with its 2000 acres (800 ha) of steep green hills. The ‘wh’ in Maori is not pronounced as an ‘F’ or a ‘W’ – it’s something in between, spoken with exhaled breath. It was like coming home to my Scottish Border roots.

Farm working dogs
During the subsequent 11 years of research with sheep and beef cattle at Whatawhata, I had the opportunity to form many love/hate relationships with one of the most important bits of equipment that we had on the research station – the farm working dogs.

In 1986 I wrote a tribute (expanded below) to one of these helpers, of which we had at least 20 on the station at any one time, belonging to the shepherds and technicians. But in terms of memories, one stood out head and tail above all the rest; he was called ‘TED’.

The Working Dog’s Contribution to Agricultural Research
In, Whatawhata Hill Country Research Station, A historical review 1949-1986 by Elizabeth J. Farrelly. Eljay Enterprises, Hamilton, New Zealand. 1986.

It’s sobering to think that without the thousands of dogs that served the staff at Whatawhata and the other Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries research stations in New Zealand over the last 40 years, the good, the bad and the ‘reach-for-the-rifle’ dogs, very little research would ever have been completed.

No medals
Yet few of these dogs received any permanent recognition by having their names recorded on a plaque or in the Public Service archives in our Wellington Head Office. They had no hope of a gold collar on retirement or being put up for a Royal NZ Honour. There should have been a medal for them – The Canine Order of New Zealand (CONZ) ‘for distinguished service to agricultural research’.

Doug Lang’s TED

Ted and Doug - and the old Landrover scanning the
Whatawhata Research Station hills

Dr Doug Lang was my Research Director at Whatawhata and Teds origins start with Doug remembering seeing some rugby players training when he moved from the UK to his new job at New England University, Armidale in New South Wales, Australia,. He wandered over to see what the blokes were up to.

He ended up with them in the pub that evening, as a newly recruited member of the club, and somewhere in the many liquid conversation(s), he happened to mention that he would need a ‘handy dog’ to help with his work. Next afternoon he heard a tap at his office door and there was a wee pup, with the guy he’d met the previous evening leaping into his Landrover and beating a rapid retreat.

Doug named the pup ‘Ted’, and he (not Doug) started a long career as a Research Assistant by regularly piddling on the polished floors of the labs at Armidale. Ted soon became the official mascot of the University rugby and cricket teams in which Doug played, and Ted spent many hours snoozing behind the goal or on the boundary waiting for sundown.

Always on call
Then Ted moved with Doug to work at the University of Queensland at Canon Hill Research Station, where during the week he was on call for at least ten different staff members who needed to shift stock, or bring them in for manipulations. But come Saturday, Ted was back minding the goal and/or the boundary depending on the time of year.

Ted’s next move was to the real outback - to Kununarra in the Northern Territory. To get there, Doug first flew from Queensland to Perth sitting with Ted in cargo, Doug remembering that Ted was very pleased to get down on terra firma again.

Ted then continued his journey by boat from Perth – a trip of 21 days during which his bodily functions came to a complete standstill. So when Doug picked him up at the wharf – Ted just stopped rigid and let it all go. In seconds a puddle, then a lake, then an inland sea, surrounded him with his face showing signs of absolute ecstacy.

A thistle up his bum
In terms of Ted’s bodily functions, before evacuating his bowels he was famous for spending ages selecting the biggest, most prickly Scotch thistle he could find, and then backing on to it with great delicacy – with a sort of grin/smirk of satisfaction on his face. You just had to wait for this sequence to be completed as Ted clearly deemed it far more important than your job in hand.

We animal behaviorists tried in vain to figure out the reason for these doggy antics, going back to Ted’s wolf or Dingo ancestors for an answer – with no avail. The pain stimulus on a sensitive part of the body must have concentrated his mind or something. No other station dog ever approached him in this art.

Ted’s two pet hates
Doug reckons two things drove Ted crazy in the Northern Territory – silver-crested cockatoos and crocodiles! It must have been deep in his Australian genes. He maybe thought both were out to get him – and he was probably right!

So Ted wasn’t sorry when the day came for his final Aussie journey by VW beetle with Doug, through the Northern Territory from the Orde river to Alice Springs. Then back through Queensland to Sydney from where he flew to New Zealand to do service first at the world-famous Ruakura Agricultural Research Centre, before his final research job at the Whatawhata Hill Country Research Station.

Ted’s genetics
Ted didn’t arrive with pedigree papers or the approval of the Australian Kennel Club, and as far as anyone could predict, his father was a Kelpie and his Mum a Border Collie – and the chances are high that it was not a planned mating. So the moniker ‘handy dog’ fitted him perfectly – a dog that would do anything and everything on a sheep and cattle farm, and do it for anyone who asked him nicely!

At bad moments, many of us downgraded Ted’s kelpie DNA to ‘Aussie Blardy Dingo’ when his performance didn’t coincide with our objectives. So at trying moments, his description of “Ted you Baarstaard” may well have been the truth.

When he had really got in the way by volunteering his unwanted assistance, and stuffed up some great plan by a shepherd with his own dogs, there would be a whole range of other well chosen adjectives inserted in front of ‘baarstaard’. Coming from the north of England, I used to marvel at the richness of the English language which had embedded so well in the antipodes.

Teds holy sires
Many a time from a distance on quiet autumn mornings with no breeze, you would regularly hear someone who had called on Ted’s services, threatening him with his Biblical pedigree of ‘By Jeeeesus Ted, By Chrrrroist Ted’ or ‘By the Holy Powers Ted’.

A ‘Handy Dog’


Ted was certainly a classical ‘Handy Dog’, that can do anything around a farm from mustering, droving, woolshed work, backing (jumping on sheeps’ backs to push them forward), heeling and nosing cattle especially recalcitrant bulls, lambing work and much more like playing with the kids and returning the cricket ball to the bowler from the boundary.

Ted could do all these jobs and more without getting a sweat on and needing to jump into a trough or creek to cool off like other dogs did. He did like a trough bath though, usually selecting one full of slime. At lambing time he also loved an afterbirth to roll in or some fresh sheep dung, usually just before going home.





A keen sire

But Ted’s favourite challenge was siring unplanned pups from bitches on the station. He was a master at getting into a cage where the bitch was confined while on heat, and smiling nicely at her owner when he was found, hoping that he could get up more acceleration from a standing start than the owners boot!

Willing helper
Ted’s greatest value, like all good handy dogs, was that he would work for anyone. But let’s qualify this statement. He would do the job his way, accompanied by the person (technician or scientist) who thought they had borrowed him from Doug’s office, from under Dougs desk or station wagon to work for them. The handler accompanied Ted, and not vice versa.

Ted made a major contribution teaching people new to animal research, how to work sheep with a dog. Ted had it all worked out what he would do, and what he could get the newchum handler to do – and then how to get his handler’s grateful thanks for the result whether success or disaster.

Sheep dog No-Nos
But Ted was never around to take responsibilities for the three big No-Nos of sheep work – Ballsups, Boxups and Smothers. Ted could see these coming so he always left for home earlyin the proceedings (presumably on some urgent business or to select a thistle) and left you with the disaster. You could almost hear his Aussie accent saying ‘she’s your problem mate’!

Wool classing and woolshed work
Ted was a keen ‘wool classer’ and he’d regularly draw a mid-side or britch sample for your inspection from an unsuspecting sheep. He loved close quarter work like this.

But his unquestioned skill was his ability to help you pen-up sheep in the woolshed. Unlike other dogs, Ted loved working under the grating as well as in the shed on top.

He was skilled at rushing ahead and barking to baulk the sheep the moment they were about to enter the catching pen. His timing was perfect – and he knew he was safe from boot or stick. When at bursting point, you had to go outside to fire stones at him under the shed, but once you got inside again to continue – Ted was back in position.

But what really made Ted’s day was when a sheep’s leg slipped through a hole in the broken wooden grating made where knots had fallen out. He loved hanging on to a bit of warm, fresh, woolly bone!

The purge of Hydatids
In the 1980s, ‘hydatids’ was still a serious disease where the parasite in the sheep could be transferred to humans by contact with dogs’ faeces. Thankfully it has now been eliminated from New Zealand by many years of vigilant testing dogs for the parasite. Dogs are still treated with pills every 6 weeks for a range of parasites as a prevention.

Dogs had to be taken to marked areas on road verges in varying places designated as ‘dog dosing strips’ by the District Councils. The Hydatid’s Officer arrived in his car and trailer with all his gear and after checking all dogs were registered, administered a chemical to stimulate the dog to purge so a sample of faeces could be collected and taken back to the lab for checking for worm eggs.

The dogs hated being dosed and they certainly knew what was up when the farm truck came out and they were all told to ‘get up’ into the back. Some saw the truck, then all the dogs in the back, and had to be grabbed by the scruff and heaved in. They knew what was up.

Les Dobson - Raglan Hydatids Officer

The Heddon Road dosing strip, 40 years on -
place of many memories for Ted. ALL BAD!


But more fun came on arrival at the strip along from the Station in Heddon Road. The old dogs would not leave the truck – you had to put their chain on and drag them off, before dragging them and hooking them to metal hoops set out by the Hydatid’s Officer Les Dobson. Les was a ‘real hard case’ if ever there was one. He had to be to deal with all the dogs and their owners in the Raglan area.

Les had been around a long time and had some special tricks up his sleeve when filling out the records of dogs present, to fool any shepherds into blurting out what dogs they had at home that should have brought along for dosing and should have been registered. Pups didn’t need to be registered or dosed, so Les was expected to believe that all dogs at home were still ‘pups!

The slowest purger on the strip
Ted was famous for being the slowest purger of all dogs on the strip. He hated the whole experience, and his bowels just wouldn’t co-operate. After about three drenches to purge him, with his Les holding him in a snarling headlock, and four enemas up the other end where Les held him high by the tail at full stretch of the chain – and after more waiting, we’d all get fed up and go home with Ted having contributing zilch. All he sometimes obliged with were a few mouthfuls of sick.

One memorable time (looking back now, but not then), Doug was busy so I took Ted down to the strip. He had his usual few up the front end and then more up the back end, with the usual nil result, and as we all had work to do we went back to the station. Ted returned to his usual spot under Doug’s desk and I clean forgot to tell Doug that he hadn’t purged.

When I did remember, Doug said that it was OK as he had found out. Ted had purged hours later at Johnstone’s corner going into town in the back of the station wagon!

Master of the brawl
Ted was also a master of starting scraps and then clearing off when things got heated. One Christmas I was feeding about 25 dogs for owners on holiday, and I always let them all off for a run and a swim in the creek below the office.

Ted must have heard all the excited barking and appeared from nowhere, and in seconds all hell broke loose. The result was a rolling ball of snarling dogs, slowly working its way past the hogget shed down the hill towards the creek.

I tried everything – sticks, stones, boots, whistles, oaths, Biblical quotes, Northumbrian oaths, and new Kiwi terms I had learned and didn’t understand. All useless! The battle only started to unwind when Ted shot out the side of the maul, and did a runner off back home up the hill to Doug’s house.

Daltons Bob – by Langs Ted out of Derricks Sue
I foolishly got a pup for our kids sired by Ted, from an unplanned mating (as usual) with technician Graham Derrick’s Sue. We called him Bob (sometimes!) and he was intended as a non-working pet. All the other pups in the litter were useless I learned, but the little sod we got would never stop working.

No way could he be let off to play with the kids. I only let him off for basic training – a very basic mistake. So not surprisingly, he assumed that when off the chain it was sheep work time. When he saw sheep, even on the far horizon he would take off and even muster half of Ken Johnstone’s farm next door! Bob had clearly inherited plenty of Ted’s hard genes. I had to wait till he was exhausted before he responded to my ‘way leggo’ whistle.

He created some great memories among the technicians and shepherds, and when we meet after 40 years now, Bob’s antics are more memorable than mine. Bob had Ted’s hard genes, and I had to work him most of the time with his front foot through the collar to slow him down. That didn’t work for long, as he learned to handle three legs with ease. I used to then change his legs hoping to fool him, but he soon solved that one too.

I used to make him run behind the motorbike going flat out up to the yards. This tired him for a short while, but even when his soft pads wore off with a few days of yard work, he only slowed temporarily.

Possum hunting Ted
Ted was a great possum hunter. He loved the chase and would locate possums in the tree, barking to inform Doug of their location. After Doug dislodged them, Ted would drive the possum towards him to be dispatched by a forward push or straight drive from Doug’s old autographed cricket bat. Doug’s main worry was the possibility that he would miss, and the possum would continue its journey thinking Doug’s long legs were another tree to nestle in a nice safe crotch!

The end of an era
Ted worked to the ripe old age of 16, ending his days in semi retirement when Doug went farming. There must be at least 20 scientists of note around the world who will remember Ted with warm emotions for the contribution he made to their work. There would be at least five times as many shepherds and technicians in Australasia at the many research stations who would all have instant recall when the name TED was mentioned.

Without doubt, Ted will be in some working dog paradise, most likely under St Peters woolshed, listening for his quoted parentage and a holy leg to slip through the grating.

Happy memories

Ted winning the heart of Olive Dalton on his rounds of the Research Station houses
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Holiday Dog Bite Prevention Tips


Holidays Are Stressful for Dogs

The holidays are especially stressful for dogs due to changes in routine and the comings and going of visitors. Many dog bites happen at this time of year.

When visiting a house with a dog, children should be taught not to approach the dog (even if the dog has been friendly on other occasions). If the dog comes to them they should stand still like a tree and let the dog sniff. Only if the the dog is wagging and panting and coming to them for attention, and parent and dog owners are supervising and have given permission, should a child touch the dog. Dog owners should gauge their dog’s reaction to visitors. If the dog is overly excited, barking or growling, cowering away, trying to hide or otherwise showing signs of anxiety or aggression, the dog should be kept separate from visiting children for the ENTIRE DURATION of the child’s visit. The dog should have its own place in a crate or another room with toys, a bone to chew on and its special bed or blanket so that it can be happy and comfortable and away from guests. Even dogs who seem happy with visitors should never be alone in the room with visiting children. No preschooler, toddler or baby should be allowed to be near your dog unless you personally also have your hands on the dog and can prevent face to face contact between child and dog and can prevent the child from hugging or otherwise bothering the dog.

Greeting People at the Door

Dogs should not be allowed to greet visitors at the door. This is for the safety of the dog and the visitors. Keep the dogs in separate room or crate until the visitors are settled and then allow the dog to say hello if appropriate. If you are not sure about your dog, then leave him confined or keep him on a leash. Make sure that the dog associates visitors with something good for the dog, such as special treats or a stuffed bone.

Not the Time to Train the Dog

If you do perceive a problem between your dog and visiting children - THIS IS NOT THE TIME TO WORK ON IT. It is not reasonable to use visiting children to help train your dog. Take preventative measures to ensure that your dog does not have the opportunity to bite and once the holiday season is over seek the help of a dog behavior specialist who uses positive reinforcement methods to solve the dogs problem.

Family Gatherings

Family gatherings at a relative’s house are the source of fond memories for many. The relative’s dog may not enjoy these events as much as the rest of the family. Noise, confusion and changes in routine are stressful for dogs. Even a normally calm and docile pet may become agitated enough to bite under the extreme circumstances of a boisterous family celebration. Supervision may be lax if each adult thinks that another is watching the children. Children are the most likely victims of dog bites in this situation. Doggone Safe offers the following tips:

  • Put the dog in his crate with a bone or favorite chew toy, at least during the most hectic times – guests arriving and leaving as well as dinner preparation and serving.
  • Assign one adult to be in charge of the dog, to watch for signs of stress and protect from unwanted attention from children.
  • Signs of stress include: The dog yawns or licks his chops.The dog shows the white part of his eye in a half moon shape.
  • If the dog shows any of these signs, then he is worried and wants to be left alone. Put the dog in his crate or in a room away from the guests with a favorite chew toy or bone. 
  • If the dog licks his chops, yawns or shows the half moon eye when a child approaches or is petting him, intervene immediately and ensure that the child cannot access the dog. 
  • Do not allow visiting children to hug the dog. Dogs don’t like hugs and kisses. Even if the dog tolerates this under normal circumstances he may not tolerate this from strangers or in a high stress situation with lots of noise and people. 
  • Other signs that the dog does not welcome attention from children (or adult) guests include the following:

  • The dog turns his head away, walks away or tries to hide under furniture.
  • The dog freezes and becomes very still, with his mouth closed. He may be staring intensely at the person who is bothering him and may growl. This dog is a few seconds away from a bite.
  • The dog growls or raises the fur along his back.

  • Assign one adult to supervise each baby or toddler with no other tasks expected. 
  • If you have multiple dogs, consider kenneling them, crating them or keeping them in another room during large gatherings. 
  • Supervise at all times.



Download our handout with a summary of tips for parents and dog owners

Articles:

Visit our article library for some articles about keeping kids and dogs safe during the holidays. Scroll through the list looking for those articles marked with a candy cane. Download the Doggone Safe Holiday Press Release with more tips

Members:

Doggone Safe Members: Download the Doggone Safe Holiday Press Release that you can edit to send to local newspaper, radio and TV media to promote your business and disseminate our safety messages. Join Doggone Safe.
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Training Your Dog to Run

How to Train Your Furry Friend to Be Your Running Partner

Dogs truly are a gift to humankind. They offer a unique companionship. Without ever saying a word, a dog will always want to be with you, always be happy to see you, and always love and depend on your love for their entire life. The friendship is pure and irreplaceable as a dog will never expect more from you other than your love and care. Naturally, if youre a runner and/or enjoy hiking adventures, your dog can be an amazing companion who will want to go however far you go, however long you go, whatever time of day. Being a responsible pet owner is being prepared so they can enjoy these adventures with you. 

Since the moment I began learning about Jane Goodall in elementary school on my own account, animal behavior has always been a huge intrigue for me. The beautiful thing about animals is they innately will strive for love, protection, and survival within their communities. Animals, just like humans, are innately active, some more capable than others. Its our job to responsibly prepare them so they can always be a healthy running partner. Below is an expanded version of my 2XU Q&A article on how to train your dog companion to be the runner he/she is meant to be. 


1. What are the benefits of running with your dog?
My two dogs are family: my 7-year-old labrador, Max, goes the distance on runs and swims. My 5-year-old boxer, Bruno, does sprints with me and chases me on my bike. The biggest benefit of running with your dog is to see their joy mirrors the exact same joy you have when you are out there running. To be able to share an activity you love with someone that will always be happy to be with you is a beautiful gift of companionship. You are their everything for their entire life. 


2. What are the best breeds for running?
Different breeds have different abilities and/or limitations on how far or fast they can run with you. Any breed will want to run with you: how far and long will depend on its physiology and how well you train your dog. For example, short snouts can limit a dog on how well they can cool themselves or short legs can limit a dog how fast they can keep up with you. They cool off from their paw pads and panting. Therefore shorter snouts makes it more of a challenge for dogs to run long. Size, shape, length of legs, length of snout, weight, and density of fur coat all influence the type of runner your dog can be. Dogs cooling mechanisms are key to understand when it comes to running so keep these factors in mind when training your dog to run. This isnt a complete list but here are some breeds to keep in mind when choosing a running partner. 

According to Outside Magazine:
We both made the list, mom!
Rhodesian Ridgeback
Weimaraner
Border Collie
Australian Shepard
German Shepard
Dalmation 
Alaskan Malamute
Vizsla
Airedale Terrier
Jack Russel Terrier
Poodle
Belgian Shepard
English Setter
Siberian Huskey
German Pointer
Brittany Spaniel
Boxer
Labrador Retriever
Australian Cattle Dog
American Staffordshire Terrier


3. What is the safe age for dogs to start running? 
Two factors need to be kept in mind: 1) size of breed and 2) age. We need to be more careful with younger and older dogs as they are either still developing into their adult phase or are slower to heal/regenerate cells. Smaller breeds tend to live longer; therefore, their rate of physiological maturity is slower than larger breeds. By keeping these two factors in mind, follow the key rule: dont do too much, too soon, too fast. Sound familiar? What applies to humans applies to dogs. Allow puppies to be puppies especially during those first six months dont do anything extreme. Focus more on dog commands (such as heel, sit, stay) rather than distance or speed. Commands and skills are important to incorporate into your dog training as it can save your dogs life on a run. The more you work on these commands and allow your dog to practice, the better he will become. 

For example, I adopted Max when he was six weeks old with the full intention he would be my running partner. Beginning at 2-3 months we would take casual 1-2 mile walks very early in the morning at the beach to avoid distractions. Puppies just like kids are VERY easily distracted so when training them aim to eliminate as many distractions as possible. We would practice commands on and off the leash and then I would allow him to splash around in the waves. By six months old, we started running 2-3 miles together only a couple times a week still focusing fully on the commands of him obeying on and off leash. From 6-12 months, I gradually extended the runs to 4-5 miles and started picking up the pace always listening to what his threshold was. After one year of training focusing primarily on commands and building mileage very gradually, then you can build more and run more often always listening to how your dog responds. At his peak shape, Max was able to handle 20-22mi trail runs at my pace and/or 7-8mi tempo runs at 6:00 min/mi pace. Anyone that has run with Max and I can attest how obedient he is when it comes to running out there. We usually opt for remote trails where there is less ped "traffic". He prefers cooler weather, though, like his mom. 

Keep in mind that how well trained your dog becomes is very fluid. If you dont maintain it then they lose it and you shouldnt aim to have your dog aiming to kill mileage all year. Their bodies require rest and periodization too. Be patient with your dog and give yourself a year of gradual mileage build up. 


Sunrise at 10,064
4. How far can dogs safely go? 
Just like humans, there is no magic number and every dog breed is different. With most dog breeds, you want to be mindful and not be selfish to push them too long. They will run till the end of earth for you, but you dont want to burn them out. Ive taken Max on +20 milers on the trails during cool weather when hes very well trained, but we arent doing this every weekend. It would be once every couple months. Labs tend to be prone to joint problems and hip dysplasia. Therefore, I keep this in mind by giving him dog glucosamine supplements, aim to keep him at a lean body weight (yes, you need to be mindful of dog weight if you want him to safely be active on his joints), and dont do the really long runs too often. When hes moderately trained, he can handle a 10-12 miler in the trails at my pace a couple times per week. I normally would not exceed 30-40 miles/week with Max, but then again I am a low mileage runner as well. I will admit he does fall a little out of shape when I train for an Ironman because I am running much less. Its always harder to train a dog (or even a human for that matter) to go faster than go longer. Treat your dog like a human. Listen to what their body is telling you. If they are starting to lag behind on the runs then back off the pace and/or cut the distance short. The human will need to be more patient than the dog when it comes to building mileage safely. 


5. How do you train your dog to drink/eat on the run?
You will need to train your dog to drink from your hydration pack/bottle and eat while on the run. This is more important for long runs and probably not as necessary for shorter runs. If its hot, carry more hydration for your dog and slow down the pace substantially. Dogs have a different cooling mechanism than humans do. As humans, we have a higher surface area where our sweat glands will cool us off when sweat evaporates. Dogs do not have that luxury. Chill the pace or instead go for a swim with your pooch on very hot days.

Introduce drinking from your hydration bottle/pack very early in your walks and/or runs training the dog you will not go further until they take a drink. Certain dog breeds can be stubborn, but again training a dog takes a huge amount of patience since they will not get it the first try. Always praise your dog when they listen. A treat is nice, but dont get in the bad habit of allowing your dog to associate that every good deed will yield a treat. Its like when humans develop the bad habit treating food as a reward. All they ask is for your love. Train your dog to seek for your praise saying: good boy or good girl and massaging them behind the ears goes a very long way for dogs. 

There are certain foods that are safe for dogs so learn to carry dog safe foods and electrolytes enough for your dog and yourself for the long runs. Labs have voracious appetites so my Max will eat anything. I give him a snack every hour when we are running for two hours or longer on the trails. I give him a sip of hydration about every mile depending on the outside temperature. Here are some food items that are unsafe for dogs.


6. How does temperature affect a dogs run? 
Mt. Islip Summit
For heat: Dogs cooling mechanisms are different than ours and less efficient than humans. They cool off only from their panting and paw pads so they will warm up quicker than you. Give them extra hydration, monitor they aren’t overheating, and slow the pace. 

For rain: they love it! Most at least. Dogs are like little kids at heart and they will play with you out there for hours. 

For cold/snow: Some breeds definitely can tolerate colder temps and are made for it. The colder it is, the longer and better they can run such as huskies. My lab absolutely loves it! My boxer is more cautious and not a huge fan of cooler temps so he wears the dog shoes as his paw pads are more sensitive to cold. 


 7. Who should dictate the pace – the human or the dog? 
Mt. Baldy Summit
The human commands the direction of the run. The dog should influence the pace. This goes back to listening to what your dog can tolerate and what he/she is trained for. Dogs, just like humans, can be trained to go amazing distances or speeds, but the training must be gradual so they don’t get hurt. They will want to please you so will go as long as you go so just make sure they are safely trained for it. I usually end up taking my dogs out on my long recovery runs so it is a run that is more for them than me. The human should always dictate the pace within the parameters and capabilities of their pup.  

The human is the alpha so the human needs to command the pace and direction of the run. If the dog learns that it can do whatever it wants and you follow him/her, it can lead to an unsafe situation for your dog. On leash, your dog needs to learn that it should not pull or tug on you rather run with you. When off leash, your dog needs to learn that there still is an invisible leash and should always stay within a certain distance of you as you run along together. 


8. What other issues are you likely to encounter when running with a dog? 
Strawberry Peak Summit
Dogs can have an off day. Learn to read their signs. If they just aren’t their energetic selves then call it early and shorten the run. If you’re running in populated areas, train your dog to listen to your commands because sometimes you might run into some humans who just don’t like to be close to dogs. Respect others personal space unless invited.

Socialize your dog as early and often as possible. Take them to dog beaches and dog parks so they learn how to behave around a pack of other dogs and humans. Train them to travel with you. Train them to behave in different settings. So that when you take them on a run, they will just flow with you as if you both were one. I absolutely love my dogs and am so grateful I can share their beautiful joy outdoors with me.



Sounds like too much work? Like any relationship--partner, child, parent, student, athlete--however much you are willing to put into it is what you will get out of it. Your lovable, cuddly popcorn-smelling buddy will be an amazing running partner and every minute will be golden out there, 
human and dog together. 


Maxs adventures @irondogmax

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