Dogs in Review May 2013

Canine Science! Everywhere! AHHH! (source)

Hey Mia!

Didn’t May come and go in a flash? Is it possible to ask for an extension? The world of canine science was bopping last month, so here’s a review of things I would have liked to cover in more detail, if I were granted a two-week extension:

--> Dogs in Research

Dogs rocked peer-reviewed journals last month! As you mentioned, the Horowitz Dog Cognition Lab published an article in a recent issue of Learning and Motivation. We looked at the olfactory experience of companion dogs, and Im sure Ill talk more about our paper later. The issue will include a number of dog-centric, peer-reviewed articles covering a variety of canine cognition topics such as olfaction, memory, physical cognition, and the influence of humans on dog behavior. Here’s a brief overview of a few of the studies:

MAGIC BONES

Pattison et al. The case of the magic bones: Dogs’ memory of the physical properties of objects.

How can I not mention a paper talking about magic bones? “Using a procedure popular with preverbal infant researchers, [the researchers] allowed dogs to initially observe a bone and then to subsequently view the bone changed in either size or color. Dogs gazed longer at a bone changed in either way, compared to a control presentation of an unchanged bone. Dogs apparently encoded and remembered both the size and color of the bone.” *

OLFACTION

Hall et al. Training domestic dogs (Canis lupus familiaris) on a novel discrete trials odor-detection task.

“[Domestic] dogs can be trained to detect a distinct odor (anise) buried in pine shavings. However, it took dogs about 60 trials to reach an average performance level of 80% correct choices, and dogs learned much better when a human experimenter delivered food reward than when the reward was buried with the odor cue.” *

SOCIAL INFLUENCE

Pongrácz et al. “We will work for you” – Social influence may suppress individual food preferences in a communicative situation in dogs.

“[Dogs] would repeatedly choose a bowl containing a carrot over a bowl containing preferred sausage if a human pointed to the carrot bowl. In a delayed response test, dogs regularly search at the location where they last saw food disappear.” *

DOGS AND WORDS

Pilley. Border collie comprehends sentences containing a prepositional object, verb, and direct object.

Chaser knows words (source)

A border collie named Chaser initially captured headlines in 2011 as “the smartest dog in the world” when research published in Behavioral Processes reported that she knew the names of over 1,000 different objects.

Pilley’s current article investigated Chaser’s attention to the syntactical relationships between words, like differentiating “to ball take Frisbee” from “to Frisbee take ball.”

What’s going on with “wordy dogs” like Chaser? How did they get this way? And how can we test whether the dogs in our homes understand our words as we intend them?

• Do Dogs Understand Our Words? The Dogs Weigh In. Scientific American

• Do Dogs Understand Our Words? The Bark Magazine 

PUPPY PROBLEMS?

In other canine science news, I was happy to see that the blog Companion Animal Psychology (twitter: @CompAnimalPsych) covered a recent publication by Frank McMillan et al investigating behavioral problems in puppies from pet stores vs puppies from non-commercial breeders. According to the study: What were the behavioral differences between pet store and breeder-obtained dogs? Read on!

YAWNING IN DOGS MEANS...

Over at Not bad science on Scientific American Blogs, @Felicity__M discusses a study of yawning behavior in dogs. Check out her coverage of the recent paper, Buttner et al. Contagious yawning, social cognition, and arousal: an investigation of the processes underlying shelter dogs’ responses to human yawns.

--> Dog Bite Prevention Week 2013
Apparently, the third full week of May is dog bite prevention week, but in my mind, every day is (or should be) dog bite prevention day. I don’t want to be bitten by a dog, and also I don’t want to give a dog the experience of biting me. So how do we prevent dog bites?

• My primary strategy to avoid being bitten is to not be a child. Yes, that is cheeky, but children are more likely than others to be bitten by dogs, which we’ve discussed in earlier posts, Dogs and babies: Not always cute and The Science Surrounding Children & Dogs: Part 3 (The Ugly).

• I also avoid bites by not interacting with dogs like this: 

Watch Sophia Yin Dog Bite Prevention Video

• Instead, I ask dogs whether they want to interact, as recommended in a great post by Khris Erickson, the Humane Educator at HAWS, Humane Animal Welfare Society in Wisconsin. 
  
  
• If dogs indicate that they are not into interacting, then we dont interact. Its that simple. What I sometimes find is that owners of "so friendly" dogs want to push an interaction even if the dog is giving "not right now" indications. A dog can still be "uber-friendly" without wanting to interact all the time with everyone. Ive been thinking about this a lot recently as NYC enters summer and dogs are looking hotter and hotter, and potentially experiencing some physical discomfort.
  
  
• I also think about context, practicing interventions and what a leash can (and can’t) prevent. Patricia McConnell, CAAB, offers in-depth insights into this topic over at her blog, The Other End of the Leash, in the post Dog Bite Prevention 2013.
  
  
• When it comes to preventing dog bites, I frequently check out The Blue Dog, a website aimed at educating children about dogs. I first learned about The Blue Dog at the 2nd Canine Science Forum. The website houses resources and research on children and dog bites, in addition to providing general dog information:
• Research on dog bites

• Research on dog bite prevention

--> Up next: Some of the leading canine science researchers will be presenting at a Canine Science Conference, SPARCS, June 28-30, 2013. The best part is, anyone in the world can join, either in a conference hall in Redmond, WA, or streaming live to your living room. 

(source)

I recently covered the SPARCS conference on #SciAmBlogs, who will be there & what to expect, at You’re invited to a canine science conference. Take a look!

I know your life is currently heavily focused on The Big W, and I’m not talking about the best movie ever, It’s a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World. Hoping for an update on working dog welfare!

Cheers!

Julie

* summary by Macpherson K. & Roberts W.A. (2013). Exploring the canine mind: Studies of dog cognition, Learning and Motivation, DOI: 10.1016/j.lmot.2013.04.006

© 2013 Julie Hecht

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Is a Smiling Dog Showing Aggression

By Linda Cole

One of my dogs, a Terrier mix named Sophie, was a smiler. She would curl up one side of her lip and wiggle all over, grinning if we asked her to do something she didnt really want to do or when we talked to her in our “Youre such a good girl” voice. I called it her “Elvis” smile because thats what it reminded me of. It was so cute and always made me laugh. If she was in trouble, which was rare, I quickly forgave her transgression. As it turned out, Sophie knew exactly what she was doing, and it worked. A smiling dog might be showing aggression, but not always. Sometimes, a smile is just a smile; it’s a way some dogs convey they are not a threat.

When it comes to understanding a dogs body language, everyone recognizes that a snarl with teeth bared means to back off and leave that dog alone. When Sophie smiled, she was showing deference to us with a submissive grin. The difference between a snarl and a submissive grin is broadcast loud and clear in a dog’s body language.

When a dog submits, he lowers his body closer to the ground, and may cower. His tail is tucked to one side, but never between his legs like with a fearful dog. His ears are held out, resembling airplane wings. He holds his front paws up, avoids eye contact, might roll over on his back, and may urinate to signal his compliance to you or another dog. When a submissive grin is added, you see excited body movements and squinting eyes. An aggressive dog isnt going to roll over and expose his belly to someone or another dog he views as a rival. Everything about his body language says hes on alert and ready to fight, if necessary. A growl usually accompanies his snarl, but not always.

Theres a difference between a dog submitting and one showing fear. A submitting dog isnt a threat, but a scared dog could attack out of fear. One clue is the position of his tail and ears. The submitting dog pulls his tail to the side, and holds his ears out to the side. The fearful dog tucks his tail between his legs and he has “whale eyes,” meaning you can see the whites of his eyes, and his ears will be pulled back against his head. His overall body language says hes scared. All he wants is to be left alone. Never turn your back on a fearful or aggressive dog. Watch them without making direct eye contact.

Sophie gave us her submissive smile if she thought she was in trouble, but she also flashed it when she was greeted by other people. However, when she realized she received positive attention for smiling, she began to do it at other times, as well. In the beginning, she smiled if she felt stressed to show she wasnt a threat, but learned to use it to her advantage. Because it was cute, I admit we helped her along with some tasty CANIDAE TidNips™ treats when she gave us a smile.

If you like seeing your dog smile, theres no harm in encouraging the behavior and adding it to his repertoire of cute tricks. When your dog starts to smile, give him a command such as “Smile” or “Cheese” and reward him immediately after he smiles.

Some people and children mistake a submissive grin as a snarl, so if you have a dog that greets visitors with a smile, its a good idea to let them know before meeting your pet so they wont misinterpret his intentions. His smile is part of who he is as an individual. You cant stop him from grinning in situations where he feels threatened, but you can redirect his attention if hes uncomfortable when greeting people. Engage him in a game of fetch or tug of war, give a command like sit, or ask him to perform a trick. Using play or a treat to refocus his mind takes him out of a stressful situation to one where he feels more comfortable.

A submissive grin has nothing to do with aggression. Its one way some dogs show their friendship to the people they love. According to Texas A&M University professor of Veterinary Medicine, Bonnie V. Beaver, DVM, and author of “Canine Behavior,” a submissive grin is most likely an inherited behavior, common in certain purebred and mixed breed bloodlines. So if you have a grinning dog, enjoy his cute and beautiful smile!

Top photo by Susan E. Adams
Bottom photo by Ginfox

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January is Train Your Dog Month Free Webinars and Chats

National Train Your Dog Month is an Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) annual campaign, and 2012’s event will be better than ever! Join us for FREE educational webinars and live chats with professionals!

Each year, hundreds of thousands of pets are turned into animal shelters because their owners couldn’t find a reliable resource to help them with their pets’ behavior problems. Sadly, the end result is often euthanasia at the shelter rather than rehoming the pet. In response, the APDT has designated the month of January as National Train Your Dog Month to bring awareness to the importance of socialization and training for all pets! January was selected as the perfect month because so many animals are adopted and brought home during the winter holidays. We hope to help families and their pets start the New Year off on the right paw with information on the behavior needs and training of their pets.

To help the pet-loving public, as well as professionals in the animal shelter and others in the pet care industry, the APDT has recorded free educational webinars featuring many well-known pet training and behavior professionals and experts. These webinars will be available starting in January through the Train Your Dog Month event website and are completely free. APDT has also filled the month of January with a variety of “live” Facebook “chats” where anyone can “talk” in real time with professional training and behavior consultants, on a variety of topics pertaining to the training and care of dogs, cats and even rabbits! Anyone with any behavior and training questions can join the chats to learn more about their chosen pet. Visit the event website, www.trainyourdogmonth.com, for full schedule information, professional bios, as well as fun downloadable resources on training and behavior.

Free Webinar: Dog Safety - What to Teach Your Kids with Joan Orr

Free Webinar: Setting Dog and Baby Up for Success with Jennifer Shryock

Doggone Safe and the APDT believes that a better understanding of our pets’ behavior can lead to happier, healthier and harmonious households for humans and companion animals. Top trainer Ken Ramirez says:

?"Training is not a luxury, but a key component to good animal care. Everyone who has a pet should understand that basic fact. Training is a way to enhance the quality of life for our pets. It is far more than just teaching a dog to do a cute trick. Training is about teaching a dog (or any animal) how to live in our world safely."

Read a fascinating interview with Ken about advanced training concepts.

Have Fun! Train your dog!

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Tip of the Day Talk to Your Child After a Dog Bite It is NOT the Childs Fault

It is Child Mental Health Week and Dog Bite Prevention Week, so we are starting off our series of daily tips on the topic of emotional support for children after a dog bite.

Children who are bitten by a dog often experience significant stress that can persist long after the incident. The may feel betrayed if their own dog bit them, guilt if the dog is put down or sent away, anxiety due to the distress that this has caused their parents and fear of some or all dogs. Signs that your child is experiencing emotional distress or even post traumatic stress include, nightmares, social withdrawal, fear of going outside or other changes in behavior that surface after the incident.

Please remember that no matter what, it is NOT YOUR CHILDS FAULT that they were bitten by a dog. If the dog was supervised and secure the child would not have encountered the dog. Be sure to reassure your child that it is not his fault and avoid using language that might add to a childs guilt ("you should have..." or "why didnt you..." or "if only you had..." or "I told you not to..."). In many cases neither the child nor the supervising adult, nor the dog owner realized that there was a danger of a bite because the dog was a generally friendly family pet. In other cases the child encountered a strange dog running loose, a situation that should have been prevented by the dog owner. Learning about dog body language and how to read the signs from a dog will help prevent these types of bites in the future and will be empowering for the child. We do not blame the victim, but we do encourage education for children just as we would for any hazard. The more they know, the less likely they are to be hurt.

Child psychiatrist Dr. R. Larry Schmitt recommends that parents repeatedly encourage and allow their child to talk about the incident and their feelings.

Read an article by Dr. Schmitt about why it is important to keep encouraging your child to talk about the bite or attack and more importantly to listen to your child.

Find out more and read answers by Dr. Schmitt to frequently asked questions from parents.

Dr. Schmitt will be giving a lecture for parents about how to help a child after a dog bite. This will be held at the San Diego Humane Society on May 22 from 6:30-8:00 PM. If your child has been bitten, be sure to attend so that you know how to prevent lasting emotional effects.

Click here for more information or to register. 

Help us with our research into the lingering effects of a childhood dog bite by taking our survey:

Create your free online surveys with SurveyMonkey , the worlds leading questionnaire tool.

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Can Dogs Sense if Someone is Untrustworthy

By Linda Cole

One reason people pick a specific dog breed is for home protection. Dogs bred as livestock guardians, like the German Shepherd or Anatolian Shepherd, have a natural instinct to protect their flock and family. Guardian dogs and breeds used as guard dogs tend to have a natural distrust of strangers. But being able to sense if someone is untrustworthy is something completely different. Do dogs have a sort of sixth sense about people?

My first dog was an American Eskimo named Jack. I took him with me pretty much everywhere I went and he was exposed to a lot of different people. Most of the time, Jack enjoyed being around other humans, but there were times he refused to allow someone to pet him, even though I saw nothing out of the ordinary from the people he pulled away from. However, his reaction to someone was something I noted because it was unusual behavior for him.

We know dogs can sense danger when it comes to certain health conditions. Trained medical dogs can smell changes in blood sugar levels. Dogs are trained to detect high blood pressure, a potential heart attack or an impending seizure, and they can smell different types of cancer. Even untrained dogs can pick up changes in our health. That has nothing to do with a sixth sense, but it does show how sensitive a dogs sense of smell is. Scientific studies have shown that even humans can smell pheromones put out by other people which can give us signals about someones mood. If we can pick up someones pheromones, you know a dog has already processed that information.

Dogs are experts at reading the body language of other dogs and us. Canines living with cats learn to read their body language, too. They can look at our face and tell if were in a good or bad mood. Dogs are great at picking up subtle signs we dont even know were showing. When a dog is around someone whos nervous, excited or angry, they can smell and observe body language that could cause a dog to be apprehensive towards them. People with something to hide have a tendency to look away during conversations, and this isnt missed by dogs. Of course, we can also pick up on obvious signs of nervousness.

Tone of voice is another way dogs decipher our moods, and its how they learn when we are giving them commands, praise or correcting them. Dogs have a good ear, and if you give a command in the form of a question instead of using a strong, firm voice, youll have a harder time trying to train your dog. We use our tone to communicate what we want. I have no doubt that inflections we miss in someones tone of voice may be something a dog can hear, and it could cause him to react with caution. When you consider a dogs ability to read us in different ways, its possible they can sense something “not quite right” about someone.

Its also possible that if you have a feeling about someone, your dog is picking up on the signals you’re putting out. Dogs know us pretty well, and if you are uncomfortable around someone, your dog is likely to react the same way. Some breeds, however, are naturally wary of strangers and may have a hard time getting close to someone they dont know.

Researchers are learning to be careful when studying our canine friends to make sure dogs arent reacting to cues they put out. Chaser, the Border Collie dubbed the smartest dog in the world, was taught to recognize over 1,000 different objects, as well as the difference between a noun and a verb, and to understand short phrases. To make sure she was actually learning, the person testing her took great care to work in a controlled setting so Chaser wasnt reacting to their subtle cues. Dogs are so good at picking up the smallest signals we dont even realize were sending.

Most of the time, if you have a bad feeling about someone you dont need your dog to reinforce that belief. Over the years, Ive learned more about dogs, why they behave the way they do, how extraordinary their sense of smell is, and their expert ability to read our body language. There is no proof scientifically that a dog can pick up disingenuous intent from someone or that they even have a sixth sense, but Jack did teach me to think twice about someone he had doubts about. He was usually right. If your normally friendly dog has reservations about someone, it may be wise to pay attention to what he’s trying to tell you.

Top photo by carterse
Bottom photo by Les Chatfield

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New Zealand Farm Working Dogs 4 Basic Training

  By Dr Clive Dalton
 

The pup

Pup at sale waiting for new boss

 Training methods are as variable as handlers and dogs.   But the basic principles are fairly straightforward.  How you apply them depends greatly on your nature, and the nature of the pup.  One thing all trainers agree on - theres no point wasting your time on a badly bred pup.  If it hasnt got the working genes - then forget it.

Pups start to work at different ages, but you would certainly expect to see some action by 6 months of age.  If a dog hadnt shown much interest by 9 months, youd be getting concerned about the costs of keeping it.  It would have to be an especially good prospect based on its pedigree to keep it.  Check with the breeder incase the strain are late starters, before deciding what to do.  It may not be the pup – it could be you!  Talk to an experienced dog handler about your concern.

Be wary of pups that will be keen to take on full work by six months.  Dont let them, as they can so easily get hurt and scared.  This scare may put them off work for an extended period, or forever .

Key points collected from a wide range of handlers:

·      Voice tones, petting, touching and feeding are all valuable rewards for a dog.  Exploit them fully.

·      Dont over-stimulate or tease a pup, or let anyone else do this.

·      During a pups early life, keep it fully occupied.  Never let it get bored or it will start such bad habits as barking, biting, work shyness and so.  Keep it stimulated – but not overstimulated.  Give a young pup a slipper or a bone as its own "treasure".

·      Keep it where it can see daily happenings.  Some trainers prefer a kennel to a run as it means they have to handle it each day to let it off and tie it up.

·      Teach a pup its name.  This is its alerting signal for life.  Always call it when you go to feed it.  When it wanders, call its name with a “come-here” command.  Use a word and add a whistle if you wish.  Give it a big welcome when it comes back to you.  Pet it and use its name as much as you can.

·      Get the pup used to wearing a light collar.  Its tight enough if you can slip one finger between it and the dogs neck.  When it accepts this, tie it up for a short period (about 30 minutes/day) on a short chain with a swivel in it.  Make sure it cannot slip the collar.  Dont use a rope, as it will learn to chew through it and escape.

·      Make sure going back to the kennel or being tied up is a happy and positive experience.  Be patient if the pup is reluctant.  Help it up or provide a step if needed.  Dont associate this with feeding, and dont lose your cool and boot it into the kennel.

Bonding time after exercise

·      Teach the pup to follow at heel on a lead (check cord about 4m long).  Here teach it the "heel" or "get-in" command. 

·      Teach it the "sit" command by stopping, pressing its hindquarters on the ground while lifting its head.  When done correctly - give plenty of praise.

·      Some trainers teach the "down" or "lie down" command, simply by stepping on the lead to pull its head down while pushing its back end flat.  When done correctly - give plenty of praise.  In New Zealand the “stand” command is preferred as the dog stays on its feet and is clearly seen by the sheep.

·      Teach the "stand" command.  Its probably the most important command - to get the dog to stop and do nothing.  Dogs that will not STOP on command cause so many problems with stock.

"Stand" is taught by either raising the pup from the "sit" position, with one hand on its head while the other lifts its belly.  Or you can stop as you walk along, go infront of the dog giving the command "stand" or "stand there".  With all these commands, use the pups name all the time with positive reinforcement.

·      As well as the "stand" you may want to teach a "stay" or "stay there" command.  Its probably not necessary but can be useful.  A “stay” hand signal can be taught at the same time by holding your hand infront of the pup’s face as you give it.  Then walk away backwards saying “stay there Meg”.

"Stand" or "stay" can be very frustrating for a pup that has spent the last few months being in touch contact with you.   Now you are going to walk away and leaving it with no company.  Naturally it wants to follow to maintain the bond.  Be patient as you are moving to reinforce the bond visually from a distance.

·      One famous NZ trainer of working dogs and gun dogs used to teach these early commands on a stool (see other blog post) just big enough for the pup to stand or sit on.  Once taught how to climb up on the stool from one end, the pup was scared to jump off from such a height.  The trainer then taught it to "stay", and over time could move further and further away (in all directions) without the pup moving.  At any sign of stress, he went back to reassure the pup.

·      Now the "stand" command can be linked to the "come here" command, and the "sit" in any combination.  Dont keep the pup in any of these positions for long, and keep the total lessons short, no more than 10 minutes at time, maybe 2-3 times a day.

·      When giving pups commands there’s no need to shout and roar!  Dogs have very good hearing, and a raised voice should be kept for discipline - otherwise speak quietly.  If more discipline is warranted, then use the "shake-praise" trick.

·      A pat is adequate reward when training a pup.  Dont get involved with methods that rely on food.  Its not very practical and one day youll forget the biscuits!

·      Dont train a pup by tying it to an older trained dog.  Its a great idea that doesnt work!  It’s sometimes used by some experts, but for specific problem solving.

House training

In nature a pup learns its hygiene habits from the bitch.  They normally keep the den clean and defaecate and urinate outside.  Build on this basic instinct when house training.

As soon as the pup wakes up, take it outside on to grass and praise it for performing.  Never punish it after an "accident".  Keep the pup in a small area in the house to make it realise that the area is its “den” where it will not naturally perform.  You can extend this area in time once it is performing outside.

The young keen dog

Keep it keen.   Once the dog is into regular light work, here are some general points:

·      Establish a regular daily routine and stick to it - unless the dog goes "sour" and won’t work when you’ll have to go back to the beginning.

·      Dont exhaust the dog - work it within its physical limits.  Work must be fun and enjoyed by the dog.  Dont work a dog when you’re feeling tired or in a bad mood.

·      Keep a regular routine of commands going, and keep checking proficiency.  This helps to strengthen the dog-handler bond.  You can put whistles to word commands at any time that suits.  Simply give the word command followed by the whistle or vice versa.  A good dog will learn very quickly.

Teaching Stop, and Start

Once you have the pup under control so it knows its name and will sit or stand, and then come to you, then let it show its natural instinct with stock.   Now is time for some fun- just let it go in a small paddock with some quiet sheep that are used to dogs, and see what happens

The pup may be so keen that it will forget everything that it has learned so far.  Dont worry, it will soon pick these commands up again once it has steadied down. 

Some very successful trainers dont bother to teach a pup anything until it has started to work stock.  They have no problems putting the commands on the pup later.  The last thing you want to do at this stage is cramp the pups natural instinct to work.  It doesnt matter if its work is a bit rough - just encourage it to keep going.  But keep an old dog handy to prevent or clean up any impending disasters - and incase the neighbours may be watching!

Fast heading pups are likely to get into more trouble than huntaways, which are usually more steady.  This early working instinct is to chase and go around stock.  Make sure the pup can catch whatever it sets out to chase.  Here an old dog is useful to help out and guarantee success.

You may need a little bit of encouragement to get the pup to go after stock, especially if you have overdone the initial commands.  Border shepherds use a "Sh-sh" sound to alert the pup and excite it to GO.  But seeing stock is often enough for a keen pup, but you might have to excite a late starter.  Any noise will do as long as it’s different to those already used.

Teaching directions

Here exploit the dogs circling instinct to the full.  Dont worry if it keeps going round and round stock at the start.  You can stop this by meeting the dog half way round the group, and sending it back in the other direction.  Its here where you can teach a "go away" command.

But "go away" is too simple a command, because you’ll inevitably want the dog to either "go right" or "go left" around stock, or "come right" or "come left" back to you.  Put these direction commands on the dog while it is at this circling stage with a small group of quiet sheep.  A signal with your arm or a stick is useful here too.

Commands to get the dog to go away from you (or cast) can be for example "get away" for circle right, or "get back" to circle left.  And then for commands to get the dog to come towards you could be "come away" for one direction or "come bye" for another.  Some dog handlers may just use "over" and "back".  Remember the dog doesnt speak English - it is responding to sound.

After sheep have been used for a week or so of dog training, they get sick of the whole business and wont go anywhere.  They seem to want to jump into the trainers’ arms to get away from the dog.  They become too friendly and need to be changed for sheep less man/dog friendly.

A good routine is to get the young dog to start by standing or sitting at your heel.  Then making sure it has seen the sheep, cast it on either the right or left hand to gather the sheep.   Keep sending it off on each side, as often they may prefer one particular side.

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How a Unique Shelter is Helping Dogs

Diposting oleh fajar di 15.26

By Linda Cole

Most animal shelters are run by kind and responsible people who love the pets they care for in their facilities. Their main goal is finding the perfect owner for the pets. Without these caring individuals, dogs and cats would have no place to live while they wait for their forever home. However, some shelters are thinking outside the box to give pets a better environment to wait in.

Adopt-A-Dog animal shelter in Armonk, NY is manned by an army of dedicated and committed volunteers who help insure each pet living at the shelter receives all the love and attention they need. The animal shelter, sanctuary and rescue began in 1981, and sits on two acres of land. This shelter is unique in how its run, and proudly touts a 95 percent success rate in adoptions with practices that include educating potential pet owners about responsible pet ownership, how to properly care for pets, and making a lifetime commitment to adopted pets.

The shelter is run more like a sanctuary. Volunteers walk the dogs, take them for car rides, take them swimming, and play ball and other games with them in the exercise yard. During office hours, cats and dogs are allowed to wander in the office area where they get to spend time with the staff, sack out on a bed or watch TV. The office is in a house and has two people who live there, so someone is always available to tend to the needs of the pets. In order to give all of the dogs in the shelter access to the home, they are rotated on a daily basis.

The adoption process is taken slowly at the shelter. Their goal is to make sure a pet is a good match for someones lifestyle. Multiple home visits are made when there are children or other pets in a home. The first step for any shelter is to find someone to adopt a pet; making sure the pet remains in the home and isnt returned to the shelter can be a harder task to accomplish. This is where Adopt-A-Dog stands out from other shelters by using a program they incorporated to educate potential adopters, and taking time to make sure a pet fits into a potential owners lifestyle.

Visitors interested in seeing dogs meet them in the exercise area or home instead of viewing pets behind closed doors in the kennel area. In most shelters, as soon as someone enters, a chorus of barking dogs creates excitement and stress for both canines and humans. Being able to meet a dog in a more relaxed atmosphere keeps them calmer, and their true personality is more likely to shine. This reduces stress levels of everyone involved.

Adopt-A-Dog is also a rescue. According to its president, Allyson Halm, finding puppies in the Northeast part of the country can be difficult, and some people are looking specifically for puppies to adopt. To help reduce the number of pups in high kill shelters in the southern part of the country, volunteers drive to these shelters and transport puppies to Adopt-A-Dog where they have a better chance of finding a home. They also have taken in Beagles rescued from a lab that shut down in their area.

With millions of dogs and cats living in shelters, sometimes it takes thinking outside the box to increase their chances of finding a home. Volunteers are the backbone of animal shelters, doing what they can to help care for homeless pets. Without them, most shelters would have a much harder time tending to the needs of the pets in their care.

What Adopt-A-Dog has been able to accomplish is a good model for any shelter to follow. Unfortunately, its not always that easy to find enough funding to pay for expenses, let alone buy extra land that can be used for dogs to romp around in. Having the ability to let pets mingle with people working at the shelter, or going for walks, car rides and to the beach helps keep pets better socialized. Living in a home-like atmosphere is less stressful for them, too.

Even if you arent looking for a pet, visiting your local shelter to give pets much needed attention only takes a little bit of time, and most shelters appreciate an extra hand now and then. If you dont have time to volunteer at a shelter, I dont know any shelter that would turn down a donation. Making pet blankets, toys or beds is also a good way to help out. What a shelter pet needs more than anything else is the feeling that someone cares.

Photos by jeffreyw

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What is Dog Water Therapy

Diposting oleh fajar di 13.18

By Tamara McRill

Who can resist the joyous tongue-lolling grin dogs get when they play in water? Not me… and Im guessing that as a pet lover, not you either! Turns out this canine fun – in the form of dog water therapy – can also help the health of our pets.

Sounds like a great match, so lets explore just what dog water therapy is, what you can expect and how it can help with pet rehabilitation.

Splish Splash

Well, its sort of like taking a bath. Dog water therapy – also known as canine hydrotherapy – is most commonly performed in a small heated pool. A dogs muscles are similar to ours, in that they can benefit from the warmth of heated water. Most hydrotherapy pools are also treated with a chemical such as chlorine.

Most therapy center pools have either a ramp for dogs to get in and out of the pool, a hoist to lift your dog out, or both. If your dog has difficulty walking, be sure to ask about this at centers you are checking out.

Some pools also have jets to spray underwater, which is great for building strength. Also something to ask about, if it meets your dog’s medical needs. Always be sure to consult with your veterinarian before starting any type of therapy for your dog and to get your vets recommendations on what types of pool features are best for your pets treatment.

When to Consider Water Therapy

There are a broad range of canine health problems that can benefit from hydrotherapy. The most common are chronic conditions, such as:

• Hip/elbow dysplasia
• Mobility problems
• Joint injury
• Spinal injury
• Geriatrics
• Chronic pain
• Arthritis

Hydrotherapy can also help our furry friends before and after surgery. Overweight dogs can also get more exercise, without the stress to joints, during water therapy. There are also those dogs that go just for fun.

Jump On In

If you think you would enjoy spending time in the pool with your pooch, there are some centers that allow this. Be sure to ask ahead of time though, and ask what to wear! This is also a great idea for pets who become overly nervous in new situations.

Just a word of caution: If you become nervous while in water, then you may want to skip getting in. Your unease could transfer to your pet and make the sessions stressful for them.

Questions to Ask

There are several things you will want to ask any hydrotherapy clinic before taking your dog there for treatment. This will help you determine what is the best fit and if the center is safe. Some of these include:

• How much training does the person giving the treatment have?

• Do they know pet first aid – especially in an aquatic situation – and have they ever had to perform it?

• Is there a vet on-call for emergencies?

• Will you be allowed to attend the session?

• Is the facility insured?

Also see if they will give you customer referrals to check up on. If at any time the center makes you uncomfortable about leaving your precious dog in their care, dont be afraid to skip them.

Most of all, try to have fun with the experience and make sure your dog has a wonderful time, too. You can do this by bringing along some healthy dog treats like CANIDAE Pure Heaven as a reward, staying calm and talking to your pet in a positive voice.

Have you ever tried canine hydrotherapy for your pet?

Top photo by Ordinary Guy
Middle photo by feeferlump
Bottom photo by Phiz

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What is Impulse Control in Dogs

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Keikei

By Linda Cole

I didnt really understand what impulse control was until our dog Keikei came to live with us. She was an adorable and happy 8 week old puppy who quickly adjusted to us and the other dogs. But as she grew, she became overly excited to go outside. By the time she was 4 months old, her excitement escalated to a point of no return, and she was easily agitated. She was the perfect example of a dog that needed to learn impulse control.

In our world, impulse control is delayed gratification, resisting an impulse for immediate satisfaction of a desire or temptation. Instead of spending your entire paycheck on an expensive vacation package, you spread the cost out over time to lessen the financial impact on your wallet. Your budget for this month is tight, so you skip the Friday nights out so you can pay the bills. We learn as children that no matter how much we might want something right now, whether its a new toy, going to a concert or staying overnight with a friend – immediate desires or wants dont always happen. So (hopefully) we learn early on the need for impulse control.

Controlling a puppys impulse isnt difficult because of their smaller size, and most pups can be picked up to stop an unwanted reaction to something they want. If your terrier puppy finds a chipmunk hole in your prized flower bed, you can pick him up to stop him from digging, and then figure out how to humanely relocate the chipmunk without ruining your flowers. But depending on a pups age, not all puppies can be picked up to control an impulse. Thats one reason why its important to start puppy training as soon as you bring him home. Unfortunately, as a pup grows up, he becomes more independent and if you didnt teach him at a young age how to control his impulses, his unwanted behavior will remind you of the importance of dog training. A dog that obeys basic commands is easier to control, and that is one way you can keep him safe.

All dogs should know how to sit, come, drop it, leave it and stay/wait. Teaching your pet is something you have to make a commitment to do, and starting when your dog is young helps you ward off bad behavior as he gets older. You might be surprised to discover how quickly dogs can learn. Some canines are free thinkers, some are more stubborn and some are sensitive, but all dogs can learn if you commit to their training. The Border Collie sits at the top of the list of smartest dogs, not because they are the Einsteins of dogs, but because they only need a few repetitions to learn something new. The Bloodhound is close to the bottom because it takes many more repetitions for him to catch on. Its our job to find out what motivates our pet to learn. Dog training is a process that requires patience, as well as understanding who your dog is as an individual.

Teaching a dog to sit and wait is one of the best ways to help him relax and learn impulse control. A dog who grabs a CANIDAE treat from your hand or practically knocks you over trying to get out the door is telling you he doesnt understand how to control himself. His excitement to get what he wants right now causes unintended bad behavior. You can change his behavior by having him sit calmly to get what he wants so he learns to control himself. Sitting patiently has an added advantage and helps him learn to focus on you to find out whats next, which is one way you earn your dogs respect and leadership role.

Start slow, be patient and calm, use positive reinforcement and give your dog plenty of opportunities to be successful. Once he learns a command, practice it daily. Keikei learned her commands very quickly, especially sit and drop it, and shes extremely responsive when learning something new. If she has trouble containing her excitement when going outside, putting her in a sit/stay calms her down and makes it much easier to control her desire to herd the other dogs down the steps and out the door. Working with her to control her excitement also gave me an opportunity to teach her how to wait.

Dogs dont understand what impulse control means. To them, everything they do is natural behavior, and the only consequence is not getting what they want sooner. As responsible dog owners, its up to us to help our dogs learn to suppress natural desires, like herding anything that moves, digging up a flower bed or chasing a squirrel. Keeping their excitement under control is how you keep your dog safe, and it keeps other pets, property and people safe, too.

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Photographing Dogs and Cats– Which is Easier

Diposting oleh fajar di 06.49

By Langley Cornwell

As you might imagine, I am one of those people who takes crazy amounts of pictures of our dogs and our cat. Now that so many cell phones have decent cameras, it’s easy to capture those precious moments.

What got me thinking about this was an article I read in Catster. The writer volunteers as a photographer at her local animal shelter. In the article, she chronicles her change of mind – at first she preferred photographing dogs but eventually came to enjoy cat photography more. With dogs, she liked the camaraderie and thought her photos were better with natural lighting and nice outdoor backgrounds. When she ventured into the cat room to take pictures, there was too much commotion. She couldn’t get a cat to sit still long enough to snap a good shot. And, when she got lucky and captured one of the elusive creatures on camera, the backgrounds were cluttered with litter boxes, cages, supplies, and maybe a few bags of CANIDAE Life Stages cat food, all lit by severe fluorescent lighting.

Then one day the shelter manager hung up a donated blanket and two heat lamps in an effort to spiff up the cat photos. The photographer mentally rolled her eyes, thinking there was no way a cat would sit in front of that thing long enough to have her picture taken. She was wrong. In fact, she now believes that cats intuitively know what she is trying to do and pose for the camera.

This revelation made her change her stance on the topic. The cats posed so well that she could photograph twice the number of cats in half the time she usually spent on the dogs. With dogs, she spent time following them around the exercise runs or waiting for them to get still enough to be photographed; they were more interested in sniffing the grass for the latest bit of news than being caught on camera. So her final answer was that cats are easier to photograph than dogs.

Jet "meditating"

If I was forced to give a straight answer, I’d have to hedge. In my experience, cats get into more “photo-worthy” poses, but I can’t manage to get a good shot of our cat Jet with his eyes open. Experienced photographers could probably give me a few tips, but I’m just an animal lover with a cell phone and no skills. When I snap a shot of the kitty, a flash usually goes off and he, with his cat-like reflexes, closes his eyes in that split second. I have so many cute shots of the little guy but it always looks like he’s meditating.

For kicks, I decided to pose the question to some friends. The answers were divided. Diane at CANIDAE says that dogs are much easier to photograph than cats. “Cats have a habit of turning their heads at the last minute – totally frustrates me to no end.”

Dana, a local friend who takes pictures for the Charleston SPCA, believes that dogs are easier because you can grab their attention more easily. She loves photographing cats too but says it’s harder to “stage” or anticipate a moment with most cats.

I have another friend named Jenne who takes photos for an animal shelter. She also believes that dogs are easier. “After having to photograph hundreds of cats at the shelter, dogs are easier, hands down. Treat in hand, ‘here doggy,’ perfectly still – snap snap. Cats, you gotta chase them around and even then it takes forever to get one useable shot.”

Jet napping

Another friend believes dogs are easier because they show a much wider variety of expressions and emotions. Then there were those that absolutely preferred photographing cats. Some laughingly said they can only get a good photo of their cats if they are sleeping. But some prefer to photograph cats because they simply don’t move around as much as dogs.

Crystal said “Id have to say cats. Dogs want to walk up to you for attention, and some wont sit still for the camera. A picture of a big black nose isnt something youd want to put in a frame. Cats are more laid back about it. They just sit there and stare with an expression that says youre a silly human.”

Most people can make a good argument for both sides. Tamara calls it a tie: “Cats may move around more, but Ive never met one afraid of the camera , like some dogs. On the flip side, some cats will let you follow them around like the paparazzi they deem you to be, while some dogs love the attention and will pose like good models.”

A childhood friend and photographer named Blake also says it’s a tie: “EXCEPT that cats dont necessarily want to play with you like dogs do, like when I crouch down on the ground to get a different perspective and the dog subject thinks that means hes supposed to come to me and play. I love taking pictures of both, though!”

As you can see, there’s no easy answer. What about you? Which side of the coin do you fall on?

Dog photo by Jelene Morris
Cat photos by Langley Cornwell

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